Editor’s choice: 16 go-to NYC restaurants from our local expert

When only fiery Thai food will do—Thai spicy, not American spicy (former Fish Cheeks chef Ohm Suansilphong leads the kitchen, so it tracks)—bring a group of friends to feast at this Williamsburg hotspot. The beef tongue curry and the green curry with Wagyu steak always deliver, but there’s plenty to balance the heat, too, like savory bites of caramelized coconut sugar atop fresh fruit with chicken or pork.

Bowls of sour-spicy ceviche and frothy pisco sours (a South American brandy cocktail) are definition Peruvian food, and Mission Ceviche makes epic versions of both. Plus, you can make a whole meal out of them here with the ceviche experience (four kinds to choose from with sides). Don’t not order one of the pisco cocktails—my favorite has the mellow sweetness of the purple corn drink chicha morada.

A restaurant this homey in Midtown is basically a unicorn; chef and owner Nasrin Rejali legit makes you feel like you’re in her living room. You’ll see her son Arta Kasra walking through the second-floor restaurant checking on diners throughout their meal. At the end, you might spot Rejali and her daughter come out from the kitchen to thank you for stopping by, too. The food only reinforces this family feeling: Generous plates of Persian chicken and rice that are all best shared.

Sit-down Dominican restaurants are relatively rare in the city, but rarer still is the way chef Noemi Guzman honors her homeland at Jalao. Her presentation skills are next-level: Crispy goat croquettes in a stylish ceramic bowl filled with beans, a whole-fried head of fish on a wooden tray with tons of dips, and more—these modern, inventive takes on traditional Dominican recipes are long overdue in our city.

Getting a meal here is the chance to experience, hands down, some of the friendliest service in the city—you may even get lucky enough to get a hug from legendary chef and owner Melba Wilson. If that’s not enough, remember that Melba’s also does one of the best riffs on fried chicken and (eggnog) waffles. On second and third visits, veer off script a little and go for the fried catfish or the crispy spring rolls.

This isn’t your usual fancy-pants French restaurant; it’s the kind of Parisian bistro you might accidentally stumble on that doesn’t make it to all the best-of lists, but still knocks your socks off. Better yet, it does Alsatian food, a mix of German and French flavors hard to find elsewhere in the city. The thin-crust, pizza-like tarte flambée aux Munster is a winner, and so are assorted sausages with Dijon and sauerkraut—not to mention an enviable German beer selection.

There’s brunch, and then there’s Little Ruby’s, which makes you feel like brunch is still cool even though everyone around you might be saying otherwise. That’s because it full-on embraces the freshest food and coffee that’s made Australian cafe culture a global phenomenon. Settle in with a spicy pork, egg, and chili jam sandwich; a flat white; and a good book for an afternoon well spent.

Casa Ora has been proudly flying the flag for Venezuelan food in a city where food from the country is still woefully underrepresented. Mother-son duo Isbelis and Ivo Diaz have created a dazzling special-occasion spot full of rattan lights, gold-framed artwork, and skylights. When you’re here, make sure you celebrate with a cocktail (they also do massive cocktail fountains that serve 10 to 12 if you’re a big group) and hearty braised short ribs with arepas.

Hawksmoor is an excellent reminder that chain restaurants can still feel very of-a-place (all but one other location are in the UK). The high-ceilinged NYC location stands out in a city with some of the world’s best steakhouses, and that’s no small feat. For one, the steaks are cooked on charcoal (instead of broilers) for a smoky finish. And the desserts are bonkers good—don’t skip the sticky toffee pudding—like the kind you’d rush off to order after a Bake Off episode.

Mesiba is proof that hotel restaurants officially have destination status. This jaw-dropping showpiece at the Moxy Williamsburg wows with shareable plates that you can only do justice to with a group. Once your eyes adjust to the gorgeous oval mirrors, marble tables, and leather banquettes, dive into bright plates of fluke crudo, head-on prawns in creamy risotto, and save room for the warm and crispy knafeh.

The warm and tingly heat from Sichuan peppercorns is in a league of its own, and if this is your jam, you’ll find lots of it at this cozy Long Island City restaurant. Mapo tofu might feel like the obvious choice, but HUPO does a killer version along with the Chungking chicken. Scoop up bits of the crispy fried chiles (they’re not as spicy as you think) in it and have it all with steamed rice.

The menu keeps changing at this inventive Indian restaurant, but it hasn’t lost an ounce of the fun it burst onto the scene with in 2018. You’ll still find playful drinks like the Ayurvedic Jackass with ginger beer, vodka, and turmeric and unusual dishes like jackfruit tacos (think pulled pork texture) in the flakiest Malabar parottas. You might also run into one of GupShup’s long-time regulars: Jimmy Fallon.

Indian food doesn’t normally get the tasting-menu treatment. Not only is Indian Accent doing that, but it might also be one of the most exciting tasting-menu restaurants in town. Three or four elegantly plated courses (there’s even a brunch tasting menu) like pork dumplings in broth with crispy black rice, smoked eggplant mash with goat cheese mousse, and mushroom kebabs with shaved black truffles will make you feel like you’re on a Chef’s Table episode.

You’ll probably find chef Cisse Elhadji walking through his charming restaurant chatting up diners about his French West African cooking. That personal touch makes dishes like Senegalese braised chicken yassa; garlicky, buttery snails; and spicy mussels feel extra special. The warmer months are a particularly nice time to visit, so you can post up outside along the lively, spacious sidewalk.